THE PUFFINS OF THE WESTMAN ISLANDS

The puffins of the Westman Islands. Fish Focus’ latest feature follows our trip to the Icelandic archipelago, Vestmannaeyjar.

In the summer months, one of the biggest draws on Heimaey, is the islands’ famous puffin colony.

The Westman Islands are home to a staggering puffin population – an estimated 830,000 breeding pairs, which accounts for roughly 20% of the global Atlantic puffin population. This makes it the largest “super-colony” on Earth according to Guinness World Records. Each summer around 8 million puffins flock to Heimaey, creating a spectacular avian display on cliffs and shores.

There are four puffin species in the world, all native to the Northern Hemisphere. However, only one inhabits the Atlantic and that’s the species you’ll find in Iceland, known scientifically as Fratercula arctica. While they can differ slightly in appearance, these birds share many traits. For example, each puffin raises just one chick at a time and can often be seen ferrying fish in its beak to feed its young.

Smaller than horned or tufted puffins, the Atlantic puffin is easily recognisable by its striking multi-coloured beak, black-and-white plumage and bright orange feet. Its compact body and relatively short wings require rapid flapping – up to 400 times per minute, to stay in the air, allowing it to reach speeds of up to 55 miles per hour.

On land, puffins can appear a bit awkward, earning them the nickname “clowns of the sea.” But underwater, they are graceful swimmers, capable of diving up to 60 metres in search of fish. Their diet includes capelin, herring and sand eels, which they carry back in their beaks in impressive quantities.

Puffins spend roughly eight months of the year at sea, only returning to land between late April and late August. In the Westman Islands, puffins unable to make the journey are cared for at a dedicated section of the Beluga Whale Sanctuary in Heimaey.

During winter, puffins look quite different: their beaks lose much of their bright colour, and the black markings around their eyes fade, leaving darker faces. While at sea, puffins swim and rest separately.

Nesting, Breeding, and Chick Rearing

Iceland’s cliffs and headlands provide ideal nesting spots. Male puffins dig burrows using their beaks and claws, creating a clean home suitable for females to accept. Each burrow is about 1.2 metres long and has two “rooms”: one for raising chicks and sleeping, and another for toileting.

Once the chick hatches, both parents share duties, feeding and caring for it until it fledges. With their chick safely grown, the puffins return to the sea.

How to See Puffins in the Westman Islands

The Westman Islands host Iceland’s largest puffin colony, with an estimated 830,000 breeding pairs, far more than anywhere else in the Atlantic. Puffins can be observed both on land and offshore, whether flying over the water or landing on cliffs. Stórhöfði offers one of the best vantage points for watching their famously clumsy landings.

Hiking: Stórhöfði peninsula has a bird hide with limited parking, ideal for early morning or late afternoon visits. Patience may be needed to spot the birds.

ATV Tours: Puffin-themed ATV tours make reaching Stórhöfði easy, combining adventure with insights into the islands’ volcanic and pirate history.

Boat Trips: Boats navigate the archipelago, approaching seabird cliffs and offering excellent views of puffins in flight. Binoculars are recommended for the best experience.

The Puffling Parade and Rescue Centre

Sometimes fledglings become disoriented by town lights and fail to reach the sea. Locals help return them safely to the cliffs. Some puffins remain at the Beluga Whale Sanctuary in Heimaey due to injury or impairment. Visitors can meet them year-round, and adoption support is welcomed.

Baby Puffins in the Westman Islands

Few traditions are more charming than the one practiced by the children of the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) each year in August and September. This is when young puffins (pufflings), no longer fed by their parents, leave their burrows on the cliffs in search of food.

Drawn by the lights of the town at night, hundreds of fledgling puffins spread their wings and glide down from the mountains. But, as many soon discover, the streets are not as welcoming as they seem. Hard landings on asphalt, collisions with buildings, and lurking cats in dark gardens pose real dangers. Fortunately, the puffins are not without friends.

On these late-summer nights, local children are allowed to stay out past bedtime, roaming the streets with cardboard boxes in hand. They scoop up the lost birds, giving them shelter for the night. It’s not uncommon for a single child to rescue four or more puffins in one evening.

The next morning, the children carry their boxes, now full of pufflings, to the shore. At carefully chosen spots where the birds have clear access to the sea, the rescuers lift them out of their boxes one by one and thrown high into the air. Off the pufflings glide to the sea and freedom.

There these adept little swimmers can fend for themselves until they are strong enough to fly.

On our visit to Laxey, much to my delight, we were given a puffling which had strayed into one of the vast tanks under construction at Viðlagafjara. I have to say, this was probably the highlight of our trip.

The wee puffling was in a cardboard box and he became my constant companion for a short time, (not long enough)!  He caused quite a stir at Gott Restaurant and was given a clean bill of health at the Puffin Centre, at the Beluga whale sanctuary.

We met up with Gisli Matt, co-founder of the Matey Seafood Festival and owner of two amazing local restaurants, Slippurinn and Næs. Frosti and Gisli came with us to a local cliff top, where I had to say goodbye to my feathery friend. I tucked my hands around him and threw him as high as I could into the air. He was heading straight down towards the sea, I thought that was the end of my wee puffling, but at the last moment, he took off over the water, safe and ready for his next adventure.

Spring and Summer: Puffins on Land

Late spring and summer are the prime months for observing puffins close to shore. They regain their bright beak colours to attract mates, as puffins are monogamous and reunite with the same partner each year. Atlantic puffins live around 20–25 years, often returning to the same nesting sites year after year.

We will be posting an article every day, covering this amazing trip and showcasing the Icelandic Seafood industry, cutting edge aquaculture, Icelandic heritage and the hospitality of the Icelandic people. You can read the whole publication here

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